Macro Focus Stacking and Post processing

Posted on July 1, 2016 by Admin under Uncategorized
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Posted on June 29, 2016 by Admin under Uncategorized
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White Balance Introduction :

It sounds complicated to most people but it really is not.White balance is measured in kelvins and actually measures the colour temperature, in other words how warm the light is, we may have 3200k up to 8000kWhen we look at a white object our eyes will automatically adjust to the lighting conditions, so that the object appears perfectly white to us whether we are indoors under a tungsten bulb or out in the bright sunlight.While our eyes are excellent at making this adjustment, digital cameras are not and the same object will appear different depending on the colour of light in the scene (the colour temperature) this can leave our photos with a blue (cool) or orange (warm) tint.White balance is the process of giving our camera a helping hand, so that it can reproduce the whites in our photo as they should be. Once it gets the white right, all the other colours in the scene fall into place and we’re left with an image that perfectly reproduces what our eyes saw.

White Balance Settings :

Typical white balance settings include Daylight, Shade, Cloudy, Tungsten, Fluorescent and Flash, these work exactly as you would expect, you simply choose the appropriate setting for your shooting conditions and the camera will do the hard work of making white objects appear white.

Auto White Balance :

Auto white balance is usually very good on a nice bright sunny day, it’s not so good when it’s overcast or the scene is in shade, at times like this we may need to set the white balance to a cloudy or shade setting to warm the scene up, likewise under artificial light we may need to use a tungsten or incandescent setting.

 Custom White Balance :

For situations where the white balance settings will not do, most cameras also come with a Custom White Balance setting, in this mode we begin by taking a photo of a white object (a sheet of white paper or a professional white balance card) under the lighting conditions of our scene, then we tell our camera to use that image as its white balance reference & then all photos taken under those conditions will come out correctly balanced. This setting is great in a studio or even if we are selling items regularly on ebay as once we have the setting all photos we take come out with the same colour temperature.

Using The Wrong White Balance Setting : 

USING THE WRONG WHITE BALANCE ON PURPOSE Most of the time we will want the colours of our scene to be rendered as accurately as possible, but sometimes we can get a more impressive image by artificially warming up or cooling down the scene. To artificially warm up a sunset we can select one of the cooler white balance settings, such as Cloudy or Shade, this will enhance the warm reds and oranges in the photo and subdue the cold blues and greens leaving us with a much more pleasing image.


What is Macro and Close-up Photography ?

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Close-up Macro and close-up photography caMacron take the viewer to new and seldom seen vantage points. However, macro photography also often demands more careful attention to photographic technique. will show you how to improve the quality of your macro photographs.

Magnification describes the size an object will appear on your camera’s senso r, compared to its size in real-life. The closer you place your lens relative to the subject, the larger that subject will appear in the image.

If you are using a compact or bridge digital camera, then setting this to macro mode will enable closer focusing distances and greater magnifications. If you are using a digital SLR camera, then your options are more numerous. You will need to either use a dedicated macro lens or improve the magnification capabilities of one of your existing camera lenses by adding an extension tube or a close-up lens (amongst other options).

Macro photography is close-up photography, but All close-up photography is not a macro. When we think close-up, we refer to a zoomed-in subject which fills the frame,  such as a portion of a face, a stream of water or the entire flower. In practice this usually means that we were able to focus on a subject close enough so that when a regular 6×4 inch (15×10 cm) print is made, the image is life-size or larger. This requires a magnification ratio of only approximately 1:4, so close-up photos are easily achieved by many non-macro lenses and a “Macro” setting on point and shoot cameras.However, a macro demands a higher lens quality, or another technique which will achieve a true magnification ratio of 1:1. A close-up qualifies as a true macro only if the image projected on the “film plane” (i.e., film or a full frame digital sensor measuring 24 x 35 mm) is close to the same size as the subject, which in itself is a definition of a photographic 1 : 1 (or lifesize) ratio. Of course,  magnifications larger than 1 :1  ( like 2 :1, 4 :1 etc ) are also considered to be macros, and often you will see these in extreme close-ups of insects where the entire frame is filled out by an insect’s face or an eye. However, at the minimum magnification in order to be a true 1:1 macro, the photograph from edge to edge must represent the area which is in reality, no bigger than 35 mm across. So Macro is Bigger than 1:1 Magnification & less than 1:1 is close-up Photograph.

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